EWS Woodworkers
EWS Projects
This Year's Project Focus
This Year's Project Focus
If you are interested we are going to make 20-25 rustic benches for outside areas near Geiger Hall. These will serve as instructional areas so everybody isn't stuck in the basement of Geiger all day. We will be milling logs found on base to create the 2" slabs for the benches. The legs will be different than this bench.
Click the pic for a video
This Year's Project Focus
This Year's Project Focus
This Year's Project Focus
This year we are focusing on cutting boards and charcuterie boards (the boards you serve meats, cheeses, crackers, etc. on at parties). You do not have to make one. It is just a suggestion for people who want to make something but don't know what. There is a lot of variety of style and type: edge grain, end grain, chaotic, live edge, inlaid, etc.
Click the pic for more info
Make Whatever You Want
This Year's Project Focus
Make Whatever You Want
A few year's ago our focus was on wooden pens. You can make a wooden pen if you want. But one of the students (pictured above) came to me and said, "I know it's not a pen, but could I make a table." My thought was "You're right, it's not a pen. Sure, why not" So there you see Maj Dan Robnett standing on his sturdy table. It was his first real woodworking project.
Free Wood!
In the Shop
Make Whatever You Want
Maybe the best part of this is that you can use wood previous groups have milled and dried. While I don't have an unlimited supply I do have enough that as long as you are only using less than five board feet of material it is on the house. If you want to build a larger project I will charge you some for the wood. But the prices will be at least half of what you would pay elsewhere.
Click the pic for a milling video
Cost
In the Shop
In the Shop
I am asking for a $10 donation this year (my wife made a persuasive argument). It goes to cover wear and tear on equipment, new blades, new bits, electricity, etc. Beyond that I ask that you resupply consumables like glue, sandpaper, and finishes as you sue them. I'll provide links to preferred and reliable products. There is also a standard you damage/break it, you buy it policy.
Click the pic for place where you can buy exotic woods at reasonable prices.
In the Shop
In the Shop
In the Shop
Safety is key. It's not like I haven't nicked my fingers on a blade or dropped something on my toe, but safety is important. Use common sense, wear eye protection and hearing protection, and ask for help and instruction when you need it. Also make sure you have signed the liability waiver before you start.
Click the pick for a decent shop safety video
Good & Preferred Products
Full Disclosure
The links below are affiliate links. That means when you buy using these links I get a small percentage of the purchase price. It doesn't change your cost at all. But it does help with replace tools and pay the electric bill. If you really want to help out, when you buy something expensive on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I have never done it but it might help defray costs.
Mineral Oil
This is the base coat of finish we put on cutting boards and charcuterie boards. It is food safe. You will put on about three coats of it. A bottle like this will finish 3-4 boards. You might want to share a bottle and split the cost.
The same as the previous item just a 4-pack to save money. You would only need these for doing multiple boards or something larger like a table.
Butcher Block Conditioner
This is the second layer of food safe finish we put on. It incorporates beeswax and is great for sealing the boards and giving them a smooth finish. You will also want to keep it on hand to reapply to your boards every few months to keep them looking fresh and new.
Walrus Wax
This is the final coat. It includes beeswax, coconut oil, and mineral oil is gives your cutting board a rich color and shine. This is really an optional level of shine and protection. The mineral oil and conditioner will suffice, but buffing in this wax helps it shine and helps its durability.
Minwax Paste Finish
This is not a food safe wax so it should not be used on cutting boards, charcuterie boards, or bowls to be used for food. But it is great for things turned on the lathe or things you want to hand wax to a high sheen.
Green Flocking Kit
If you want to line the inside of a drawer or box but don't love the idea of cutting and gluing felt here is the solution. The kit comes with three items, a green adhesive, green "flocking" (think faux suede), and an applicator that looks like a ketchup bottle. You "puff" the flocking onto the painted interior of the box or drawer and it dries to look like suede or felt. Other colors are available.
Glues
There are a lot of adhesives on the market today. Most of them are very good and you will be happy with how they work. But some dry clear, some dry brown and some dry black. These are all good glues that I use regularly with positive results.
Titebond III (16 oz)
You can buy this much cheaper at Home Depot. It's probably $8-$9 there. But Titebond III is the best glue for cutting boards. It is waterproof and that is important. It also means if you get it on your clothes it is never coming out. This is enough to do a couple of end grain cutting boards or chaotic cutting boards.
Titebond III (8 oz)
You can buy this cheaper at Home Depot. It's about $6 there. But Titebond III is the best glue for cutting boards. If you are just doing an edge grain cutting board or a live edge with an inlay this bottle is big enough. Actually you will only use a little of this one. Tell you what, forget it and use my glue.
Starbond Black CA Glue
This is the glue we use to fill cracks and voids that makes it just look like a black line. It is amazing stuff. If you are buying this for yourself you will also want to get a spray can of accelerator.
Starbond Black CA Glue
This is the glue we use to fill cracks and voids that makes it just look like a black line. It is amazing stuff. If you are buying this for yourself you will also want to get a spray can of accelerator.
If you bought the Starbond AC glue you will also want a can of this accelerator/activator. I think you can get by with one can of accelerator for every two bottles of glue.
CA Glue sets and cures instantly when you spray it with the activator. This multi-pack has thin, medium, and gap filling thick CA glue and a can of activator. If you plan to do any significant amount of woodworking you will want these for your own shop. They aren't incredibly strong but they seep into cracks and fill gaps. You might also want to get the black Starbond CA glue.
60 Grit sand paper
This is the aggressive sandpaper that you start with. It is very rough. Home Depot carries it at $10 for seven pieces. The link here is for a 50pack. If you like woodworking this is a staple. There are additional grits (120, 180, 240, etc.). But generally it is this rough grit that people go through a lot of on projects.
1/4 Rounding Over Bit
This is cheaper on Amazon, it runs about $30 at Home Depot. If you were rounding over the edge of the cutting board and somehow damaged it (or if you just want your own) this is the bit you want. There are other brands cheaper and some are good (some aren't). Make sure you are getting the right shank size. You probably want a 1/4" shank.
Band Saw Blade
These are the best blades for my shop band saw. If you happen to break one and want to replace it, this is the one to get. But really any blade that is 105" long, has 3 Teeth Per Inch (TPI), and is 1/2" or less wide will do.
Planer Blades
From time to time accidents happen. If you run something through the planer that has a nail or staple in it the blade can get nicked and it will need to be replaced. If you are planing enough oak to make a table you will definitely wear out a set of planer blades. These are the replacements blades for my planer. Amazon is a couple dollars cheaper than Home Depot. I use a DeWalt 735 Planer, perhaps you can find blades elsewhere cheaper.
Table Saw Blade
This is cheaper at Home Depot (it is about $30). This is the blade I use on my table saw. It is a great general purpose blade and I recommend it for anyone's home workshop.
60 Degree Router Bit
The Whiteside 1540 is my go-to bit for engraving and making inlays on the CNC machine. I like Whiteside because they use a quality steel that holds an edge and I have never had the tip of one of these bits snap off like I have had with some other brands.
3/16 Endmill Bit
This is my go-to bit for cutting things out on the CNC machine. I like Whiteside because they use a quality steel that holds an edge. The 3/16 and 1/4 inch endmills are a staple in any CNC users bit collection.
If you are looking for tools and more things that I recommend you can find them at the store link off the menu bar or by clicking the image above. Remember, these are affiliate links, so I get a little money off every purchase. I just want to be clear about that.
Add a footnote if this applies to your business